Day 062 : Penrhyndeudraeth – Pwllheli

Today I am back on the coast and I put in quite a long walk. I start at Penrhyndeudraeth which means the peninsula with two beaches and finish at Pwllheli, the main town on the Llyn peninsular.


I walk out of town and the first place I come to is Minffordd. It has two railway stations next to each other. One for the main line train services and one for Ffestiniog Railway. Just as I cross the road, a steam train crosses the bridge totally enveloped in steam. As far as I could see there were plenty of people on the train, so it must be quite popular.

I had been looking forward to walking through Portmeirion but did not realise you had to pay to go in. The village is styled on an Italian fishing village called Portofino. I am old enough remember the 1960’s series of the Prisoner. I think it was a spy / intelligence drama where they referred to each other by numbers rather than names. There were only 17 episodes ever made with Patrick McGoohan as No. 6, I think. There were other scripts written but never produced.


This corner of Wales must be idyllic for steam train enthusiasts. I drop down to a causeway called ‘The Cob’ and walk across to Porthmadog. I can smell the cinders from the steam trains and see the steam belching up ahead from a train standing at the station. It all feels very nostalgic and even I wave to the train and passengers as it pulls out.


Walking Black Rock Sands, a two mile stretch of sandy beach, head on into the wind was quite an experience. It felt like taking two steps forward and three steps back. Despite the wind it was actually quite a sunny day with plenty of people parked up on the beach. It seems a popular place for windsurfers and kite flyers.


The famous Billy Butlin had a holiday camp a couple of miles outside Pwllheli which he built up after the war with its own railway station, Penychain at the entrance. The site is now a Haven holiday park which favours more static caravans.