As I look down on Loch Sunart I turn towards Liddesdale which at one time boasted of a lead mine. I follow the shoreline passing a few houses, boats and slipways around the head of Loch Sunart.
Strontian grew as a village to provide accommodation for lead miners. The village got its name from when some French prisoners of war working in the mines discovered a completely new mineral and they called it Strontian. It was used in producing sugar from sugar beet.
I start today at Fiunary where there is a Camping & Caravanning Club certified site. It is a small privately owned site with great views of the Isle of Mull. There is also a former manse where a Victorian book about a Highland Parish was written. There is even a song been written called “Farewell to Fiunary” sang by the McCalmans.
Along the road I pass the little hill fort of Dun Fhionnairidh on my way to Clach na Criche or the Wishing Well. It’s a rock wall with a hole through it where legend has it that if you could pass through the rock without touching the sides your wishes were granted.
Kingairloch is quite a remote place where all the roads are single track. South of Kingairloch is Glensanda with the biggest granite quarry in the British Isles.
The granite is transported by ships as there are no public roads to the quarry. Apparently it provided granite linings for the British side of the Channel tunnel.
The Corran ferry saves a significant amount of time and mileage from travelling around the Loch through Fort William. The ferry gives direct access to the areas of Morven, Moidart and Ardnamurchan.
The eastern side of the loch where the ferry goes from is Nether Lochaber and the western side is Ardour. The crossing is at the narrowest part of Loch Linnhe with the Corran Lighthouse guarding the opening.
I started today’s walk from the Castle Stalker View café and gift shop off the main A828 road at Portnacrish and follow the shores of Loch Linnhe towards Ballachulish. There are great views and the food looked delicious but I decided it was too early for me to start eating.
The route is a combination of cycleway and road with good views across the loch.
Whilst at Oban I noticed boat trips going out to the Corryvrechan and also the Wetherspoon pub at Oban was called the Corryvrechan. I was curious about this and decided I would find out. It’s a narrow strait between the Isles of Jura and Scarba where the strong tides create a whirlpool. It is the third largest in the world and can create a violet cauldron of waves.
Today is another walk from castle to castle, starting at Barcaldine and finishing at Castle Stalker on the islet on Loch Laich, an inlet off Loch Linnhie.
Whenever I pass a harbour with fishing boats or trawlers they all seem to be ancient. They look to have been painted several times with flaking paint and rust stains from windows and doors. Marine ply decks are chewed up with rusty cables, chains and faded multi-coloured buoys and buckets strewn around.
Most of these boats seem to have come from the shipyards of Glasgow. This was the powerhouse of Scottish shipbuilding but by the 1970’s this had declined as cheaper labour costs were made abroad.
I notice on the road to Clachan Bridge a tin church made out of corrugated iron. The building had been derelict for some time until a couple bought it in 2005. They have renovated it making it into their home and a B&B. They have also created a holiday let at the rear. Interesting.
Following the road towards Oban I walk over a hump back bridge at Kilninver where a car and coach are reluctant to give way to each other. This seems unusual around this part of the world as must drivers anticipate bottlenecks and give way to each other with a smile and a wave.
I walk to the end of the road from Melford to the Ardmaddy estate at the end of another peninsular with beautiful scenery and great views out to sea. I pick up the bridle path across the estate towards Ardmaddy castle.
The castle sits on rising ground overlooking Seil Island. The castle looks more like a Georgian stately home than a castle. There are several cottages on the estate that are let out for holidays.
The walk today started a bit later for me as I was moving on from the Camping I had down for the last week. I had to break camp in the wet and try and get the tent dry. After getting wet through before starting to walk did not put me in the best of spirits.
One of the things that caught my eye yesterday was a teashop and gallery by the turning off the main road to Craobh Haven. So I stopped here to restore my soul and well being.
Breaking free and paving my own way.
Mad dogs and Englishmen decide to walk the coast of Britain! I don't think I'm a mad dog but many think I'm a mad Englishman!
1 Year - 5000 miles
My challenge to change my life this year...
Coastalwalker.co.uk - walking around the British coastline, very SLOWLY.
Tony's walk around the Coast of Britain 